Imagine the possibility of walking with pangolins. Adrian Steirn’s recent photographic series The Pangolin Men captures a unique and exceptional scenario of beasts and men. The images are captivating. The skin of the minders glows as they walk alongside these armour-plated, cat-size mammals. It is intriguing to wake up and discover the possibility of something that you never knew existed. I scratched a little to find out more about these images, about pangolins and the Pangolin Men.
Let’s not beat around the bush. This diminutive mammal is under threat of extinction before most people even know it is in danger. For the pangolin this is the reality. There are eight species of pangolin, four in Asia and another four in Africa. The appetite of the Asian black market has seen millions of these mammals butchered for their meat and their scales. While the flesh is considered a delicacy, the scales – made of keratin – are used in a powdered form to treat anything from stomach cramps to impotency.
In June 2016 a shipment of 4 tonnes of pangolin scales was seized in Hong Kong. Pause for a second to process this figure which represents a conservative estimate of 10-20% of the actual trade. One shipment from one place. Not of heavy flesh and blood wriggling animal but dry, lifeless, nail-like scales. While a live pangolin, bones and all, can weigh between 2 and 35 kgs, the dry weight in scales is a fraction of this. 4 tonnes of confiscated scales represents between 1100 and 6600 wild animals. In Pangolin numbers this drop in an ocean of illegal trafficking represents the demise of a species.
The Tikki Hywood Trust
Lisa Hywood founded the Tikki Hywood Trust in 1994 in the memory of her father who she says “looked to the future with optimism”. It is this ethos that drives the Trust’s work, an ethos says Lisa, that has not changed in over 20 years.
The Trust has a three pronged approach, Conservation, Legislation and Education and they all have an important role to play. “It’s no good” says Lisa “if the law enforcement officers don’t know what the penalties are or the judges aren’t aware of the sentences”. Education for the Tikki Hywood Trust means a focus on ALL stake-holders, the public (especially children) and conservation personal as well as law enforcement from police officers to judges.
In addition to this the Trust focuses on changing legislation itself. Lisa pointed out that South Africa has the strongest legislation for pangolin trafficking. If caught in possession of a pangolin the fine in South Africa is a whopping US$ 694000 and 10 years imprisonment. However, she drove her point home by asking me if I knew how many convictions there had been? “None?” I ventured. “Exactly”. There is a massive disconnect between the laws, the judiciary, law enforcement and conservation. If all stake holders are not informed and aware then criminals and poachers simply fall through the cracks.
In Zimbabwe, on the other hand, the approach of educating all stakeholders has yielded tangible results. “We have 9 years on first offence, 11 years on second offence and a $5000 fine. In 2015, 47 pangolin poachers were sentenced to 9 years in jail”. Magistrate Tendai Mahwe said “This is a serious offence which is now prevalent and deterrent sentences are called for if pangolins are not to face extinction”. With sentences like this being passed it results in a substantial deterrent for would-be poachers.
Lisa is adamant that conservation is all about awareness. Knowing about the plight of pangolins, who to contact and what to do translates directly into saving pangolin lives across the globe. “Conservation is about all of us, not just one animal. We need all the animals”. In addition to this Lisa says that for her, conservation is a team effort. Enter the Pangolin Men and Adrian Steirn.
“It was a moment where time stood still” says Lisa Hywood recalling her first encounter with a trafficked pangolin. “I received this foul smelling sack and inside was this heavy lump. When I opened it there was this one eye looking at me. It was the saddest most enduring eye that I have ever experienced. In that one look I felt that she understood me and I had no idea about her”.
This particular pangolin, a female who Lisa called Negomo, survived the early days of the Trust’s ignorance. Through working with her, Lisa realised that pangolins, like baby elephants, needed specialised one-on-one care and attention to successfully rehabilitate them and return them to the wild. “I would spend many many hours just foraging and walking and looking and watching and studying these animals to see if I could get an inner idea as to what we were missing, why were these animals so difficult to keep in captivity”. Lisa realised fairly quickly that their best chance of recovery and survival meant being in as natural an environment as possible.
“A pangolin will forage from anywhere between 3 to 4 plus hours” she says “so it is quite a labour intensive job”. Rescued pangolins are often extremely compromised, suffering from stress, malnutrition and dehydration. The pangolin minder accompanies the pangolin into the bush so that they can forage without being disturbed. A relationship naturally develops between the minders and the pangolins.
The Pangolin Men are employed by the Tikki Hywood Trust who screen and vet candidates. “It is a process that is fairly lengthy and stringent and we look for specific qualities in each individual”. Individuals are then trained in all things pangolin. Every day the pangolins are weighed, observations are recorded, the temperature, weather conditions and the movement of the pangolins. Lisa, resident zoologist Ellen Connelly and local and international vets are co-authoring papers about pangolins. The data collected is being used to make a real contribution to our knowledge and understanding of pangolin behaviour.
The work that the Pangolin Men do is fundamental to the lives of these animals. It is the relationship between these men and the pangolins that is so captivating. Today there are 20 of these Pangolin Men.
Collaboration is Key
For the last three years, the Tikki Hywood Trust has been working with Patrick Mavros Jewellers to create a range of pangolin inspired jewellery. Through this collaboration Adrian Steirn was invited to capture the images of these men as they walked with the pangolins.
Having a natural affinity with animals naturally lead Adrian to wildlife photography and today he travels around the world capturing rarely seen and exotic animals. On shooting the Pangolin Men Adrian says “It was amazing. I’ve been shooting in the bush for many years and I have never seen a pangolin in the wild. To go in there and have an opportunity to get the access to photograph those men and what they do every single day was truly something that I cherished”.
“I always wanted to tell stories that create positive change” says Adrian. To translate the world into a single image that conveys at a glance the importance of the subject matter is a huge challenge. “I wanted to ensure that people sat up and looked and watched and understood and incentivise people who may not be very green or conservation focussed to be enthralled by the beauty of the natural world and I guess, let art pull them into the space where they cared for the first time”.
The result is the series of photographs called the Pangolin Men which appeared on Steirn’s project “Beautiful News”. The photos were launched in London alongside the Patrick Mavros Jewellery collection and a percentage of proceeds from both collections will go directly to the Tikki Hywood Trust.
Looking to the Future with Optimism
Despite working with these creatures for over twenty years, Lisa says that the first time they made it into the news was 2015 and 2016. The focus is always on the flagship species. While this is important and needed it also leaves a whole host of animals in the blind-spot of mainstream media. The pangolin is one of these casualties, and bears the unfortunate title of the most trafficked animal in the world.
In October of 2016 at the CITES convention in Johannesburg, all eight pangolin species were bumped up into Appendix 1, meaning that all trade in the animals is prohibited by international law. I asked Lisa Hywood if she was pleased about this and was rather surprised and sobered at her response. “The fact that we are only doing this now means that we have already failed them”.
It is not all doom and gloom though and she continued to say that, as an African, she was incredibly proud to see the African delegates take responsibility and act unanimously in favour of protecting these animals. When I asked her what people in cities, at home, in other countries – people who are disconnected from the ‘wild’ in their day to day lives – can do to contribute towards the process of conservation, she replied without hesitation:
“wildlife touches each and every one of us, take responsibility”
Pangolins are the only mammals in the world that are covered in scales…….????
TRUE!
The pangolin’s large scales are actually made of keratin, the same material of which fingernails, rhino horns and bird talons are made. The scales, which make up around 20% of the pangolin’s weight, are very hard. When threatened by predators, pangolins roll themselves into a tight ball and the scales act like impenetrable armour. Pangolins can also lash out with their tails, using the scales as sharp-edged weapons which can easily cut through the predator’s skin.
Thanks to its famous coastline and peninsular setting, tourists in Cape Town expect that they will be surrounded water — and lots of it. But as visitors have descended this month for the peak summer tourist season, they have been greeted at the airport with signs beseeching them to “Slow the flow: Save H20” and “Don’t waste a drop!” among others.
Cape Town is in the throes of a severe drought because unseasonably dry winters have led to dangerously low dam levels. As of mid-December, the city’s dams were at about 33 percent capacity, according to the mayor’s office, and what officials have dubbed “Day Zero” is looming: that’s the date the dams will drop below 13.5 percent, taps will be turned off, and residents will have to line up at 200 checkpoints across the city to collect daily water allotments, with police and military deployed to monitor the situation. As of Dec. 18, based on current consumption and expected rainfall, Day Zero is projected to be April 29, 2018.
“The city of Cape Town could conceivably become the first major city in the world to run out of water, and that could happen in the next four months,” said Dr. Anthony Turton, a professor at the Centre for Environmental Management at the University of the Free State. “It’s not an impending crisis — we’re deep, deep, deep in crisis.”
As the city races to implement alternatives through recycling, boreholes and desalination by February, residents are restricted to 87 liters (23 gallons) of water per person per day. “We are all in this together and we can only save water while there is still water to be saved,” Zara Nicholson, the spokeswoman for Executive Mayor Patricia de Lille, said in an email. Residents are asked to meet that number by limiting showers to two minutes, turning off taps while brushing teeth, avoiding flushing toilets regularly (“If it’s yellow, let it mellow,” as one sign puts it) and using recycled water when they do, not watering gardens or topping off swimming pools, and using hand sanitizer instead of soap and water. But as the city struggles to hit a household consumption target of less than 500 million liters per day, anxiety continues to build.
“I think it’s kind of like, you know when you have a health scare, so you just ignore it till you’re dying on the ground?” said Natalie Roos, a Cape Town-based blogger. “I think that’s pretty much where we’re at.”
Despite the gravity of the situation, officials say that visitors are welcome. “The City of Cape Town certainly welcomes and encourages all tourists to Cape Town to visit our beautiful iconic city,” Ms. Nicholson wrote. “Tourism is a major job creator and one our most important sectors.”
About 150,000 people, or 10 percent of the city’s 1.5 million annual foreign visitors, visit Cape Town in December, but many tourists are unaware of the severity of the situation until they hear pilots making announcements just before landing at Cape Town International Airport. Experts say there’s no reason for travelers to stay away, but raising awareness and water consciousness is essential.
“Tourists traveling to a destination, in terms of being a responsible traveler, should always be aware of context of a destination to which they’re traveling, whether it’s cultural sensitivity or religious sensitivity,” said Lisa Scriven, the director of Levelle Perspectives, which works to implement sustainable tourism practices. “This is water sensitivity.”
Ms. Scriven pointed out that the surge in tourists does not correlate to a surge in water consumption — many Capetonians leave the city for the holidays and the construction industry shuts down; tourists only represent a 1 to 3 percent increase in population during the season. But the travel industry is encouraging sustainable practices for all, locals and visitors alike: hotels send notices upon booking and add signage asking guests to be conscientious during stays, while also removing bath plugs, installing new shower heads that reduce water flow, adding timers to help guests keep showers under two minutes, and refraining from daily linen changes.
The eco-friendly Hotel Verde has placed stickers in bathrooms educating guests on how many glasses of water are used in one bath while also incentivizing guests for good water practices — giving discounts for using their own glasses and not requesting ice, for instance. The Taj Cape Town is closing down steam rooms and hot tubs in its spa and has stopped offering a standard honeymoon amenity of a rose-petal laden bath. The city’s “Save Like a Local” campaign asks all visitors, whether they’re staying in hotels or holiday rentals, to pitch in — by using a bucket in the shower to recycle water, not requesting fresh towels and linens daily, and adapting the practices that are becoming the norm for Capetonians.
“Now do you see this beautiful bath? It’s now a sculpture,” the Airbnb host Alison von During said she tells her guests as she shows them around, before briefing them on the water restrictions.
Although things may change if Day Zero becomes a reality, for now travelers are encouraged to be respectful of the crisis while still enjoying a visit to one of the world’s most beautiful cities — the income generated by tourism is not something South Africa can afford to lose, as tourism accounts for 9.4 percent of the country’s GDP.
“The tourist dollar is lifeblood of economy, and we obviously don’t want send out a symbol that the city is going to collapse,” Dr. Turton said. “I think it’s important that all tourists become hyperaware that there is a serious water crisis, but I don’t think we want them to have a bad experience as a result of that. We want to appeal to the tourists’ conscience, to enjoy the city but do the right thing by the local community.”
Chameleons are one of my favorite animals to see while out on a game drive. As we finished our refreshments at the sundowner stop mid-way through our evening game drive from Buffalo Camp, we watched as the sun slowly moved behind the Drankensburg mountains. While heading back to Camp for a tasty dinner around the fire, Sonny Boy my tracker, armed himself with a spotlight to see what we might find lurking in the African bushveld waiting to be discovered.
I had a slight suspicion of what it might be, so got out of the vehicle to retrieve the mysterious little creature. Gently picking it up, with a gaping mouth and puffed up body, I presented our great find, the Chameleon, to my guests.
This particular Chameleon is called the Flap-necked Chameleon, whose common name is derived from the large, movable flaps that protrude from either side of the upper surface of its neck. They are one of the most common ones you will find from the 15 species that call South Africa home.
My guests were absolutely amazed at how Sonny Boy managed to spot this Chameleon up in a tree. I explained to them, they are reasonably easy to spot, if you know what to look for. As the spotlight shines on them, they become almost luminous white in color compared to their surrounding vegetation. Luckily this one was very relaxed. The Chameleon just grabbed a hold of my hand, did not even move, and allowed us to take photos.
It wrapped its tail around my finger and clung on with a strong grip. The tail is prehensile, which allows them to hold on to small branches to keep their grip and stabilize themselves in the perfect position to catch insects. I was still surprised at how relaxed it was. Normally the Chameleon would try and get away, thinking it’s going to become dinner, running up your arm, looking for an escape at the highest point.
As many believe the sole purpose of a Chamaeleon changing color is to conceal itself. Although a change in color is very good for camouflage, in fact, the ability to change color has a deeper purpose. The color changing is to reflect their moods and send signals to other Chameleons. For example, darker colors tend to mean a Chameleon is angry, and lighter colors are used to attract mates.
Then there are some Chameleons who change color to help adjust to changes in temperature. A light color would help with cooling the body and darker colors would warm the body up. They certainly are complex creatures.
I can explain this unique method of the Chameleon in another way. They have special cells (called iridophores) under their skin. These special cells contain a pigment that reflects light. By contracting and expanding the skin, they cause these special cells to move and change the structure. These cells act like prisms, reflecting different wavelengths of light to create the variety of tones we see.
As everyone finished taken photos, I placed the Chameleon back where we found him, deep in the small tree. As they are prey to most owls, I wanted to ensure he was not spotted.
The whole experience probably lasted 5 to 10 minutes. Seeing a Chameleon is always a treat and special experience for me. I know it is exciting to track and search for the Big 5, but it is easy to forget that all around us, behind each bush or up in a tree, something small and unique is hiding, waiting to be discovered if you just know what to look for.
I normally have a bet with Sonny Boy, who can spot the most Chameleons. It seems like I am always on the losing end though to Mr. eagle eyes. So who would dare to come and challenge me and Sonny Boy in a friendly bet of Chameleon spotting while we take on the wild bush of Kapama Private Game Reserve?
Someone (name with-held) complained to me this week, with very little December spirit, that she had done half a dozen African safaris yet never really had a decent leopard sighting …. she obviously had never been to a Kicheche Mara Conservancy.
Last week’s Figumentary was good even by her and her co-star’s heady standards. Firstly some super simulated spats (wonderfully captured, thanks Karen and Andy Richardson) and then something a little more fishy.
Visit the Chyulu Hills in south-eastern Kenya and you’ll discover an Imax-view of rolling green hills, golden plains and black volcanic soil, herds of Masaai giraffe, zebra and antelope. Looming over it all are giant bull elephants and the snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro just over the border in Tanzania. Discover 10 reasons to visit ol Donyo in Kenya’s Chyulu Hills.
The Chyulu Hills are volcanic, a 100km stretch of small ash cones, flows and craters. The most recent eruptions were during the middle of the 19th century. Although volcanic activity started here about 1.4 million years ago, the hills are only 650 000 to 850 000 years old, some of the youngest volcanic hills in the world. The highest peak is 2188m and although there’s no permanent surface water, rain filters through the porous volcanic rock to feed springs in the surrounding plains. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
If you’re adventurous and energetic, go on a geological hike to explore one of the lava tube caves – at about 11km Leviathan Cave is one of the longest lava tubes on the planet – or to the top of ol Donyo Wuas for wonderful views. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 2. Game drive
Head out from ol Donyo Lodge in an open safari vehicle, through woodland and across open plains with Mount Kilimanjaro in the distance or hiding behind cloud. Look out for Maasai giraffe, white-bearded wildebeest, zebra, eland, oryx, and Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles. The smaller Thompson’s is similar to Southern Africa’s springbok but with longer horns. Other animals here include cheetah, elephant, Coke’s hartebeest – the fastest and best endurance athlete in Kenya – and the strange long-necked gerenuk with its rear hip joints that rotate to allow it to stand upright to feed on high branches. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
Watching the changing landscape of volcanic hills and open plains is as much part of a safari here as the wildlife itself. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 3. Birding
If you’re keen on bird watching there’s lots to occupy you in the Chyulu Hills. I was chuffed to spot a martial eagle on a tree, especially when guide Konee Kinyaku said it was about two months since he’d seen one. Other ticks included yellow-throated sandgrouse, lilac-breasted roller, little bee-eater, African hoopoe, rosy-patched bush shrike, white-headed buffalo-weaver, white-bellied go-away bird, superb starling, Temminck’s starling, white-starred robin and Eastern pale chanting goshawk. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 4. Smart plants
There’s no shortage of trees and shrubs in the Chyulu Hills. One of them with dark galls and long thorns is called the whistling acacia and has a fascinating story to tell. Ants get inside the galls when they’re still soft, and they protect the plant by rushing out when the bush is touched to bite animals that are feeding on them. The small holes the ants use to get inside the galls make a whistling sound in the wind, giving rise to the common name. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
Our guide Konee Kinyaku touched two or three of the galls and we watched the ants dash out, not only from those he’d touched but from others on the bush too. ‘They even send messages to the next bush to warn it that animals are coming,’ he said. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
He also told us about the sandpaper bush, the rough leaves of which are useful as sandpaper or emery board. A twig of the bush is used to bring peace in Maasai families because in Maa (the language the Maasai speak) the name means peace. The idea is that you have a twig of this useful bush, you can’t continue to disagree. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 5. Bush walks
Enjoy a bush walk with your guide, a chance to feel the black volcanic earth beneath your feet, smell the aromas of the bush, hear the birds calling and learn about medicinal uses for plants that grow here. Superb as a game drive in a 4×4 vehicle is, sometimes it’s good to have a change of pace, to still the sound of an engine and open yourself to the wonders of tracks in the sand, and other small signs that your guide will interpret as if he’s reading the morning newspaper. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 6. Horse riding
Saddle up for a horseback ride into the Chyulu Hills, which writer Ernest Hemingway referred to as ‘the green hills of Africa’. It’s a natural way to get close to wild zebras and giraffes, hartebeest and Thompson’s gazelles. Whether you’re an experienced or newbie rider, your guides will match your pace. (PS If you’d prefer to explore in a different kind of saddle, ask to go on a mountain bike ride instead.) ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 7. Maasai culture
Konee was a walking encyclopaedia on the ways of his Maasai people. He told us about the Maasai Olympics – a fiercely competitive set of challenges that allows warriors to prove themselves by winning medals instead of hunting and killing a lion, which used to be a rite of passage. Events include rungu (wooden club) throwing, javelin/spear throwing, high jump, 200m and 800m sprint, and 5km run. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
He also took us to a Maasai village, where women sang, wafted a tuft of grass at us to wish us good fortune, and dissolved in fits of giggles. One of them invited us into a house through a low door and curved tunnel that unnerved me with its tightness. Inside were two beds, just a calf skin covering the hard surface. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
In the central area was the fire place, with storage space for wood. The hut was murky and smelt of wood smoke from countless fires. With Konee as interpreter, we learnt that men’s duties are to check young boys are herding responsibly, build a fence around the animal pens and take animals to sell, while women cook, do beadwork, collect firewood, build the house and look after the kids.
A man can take more than one wife. His parents choose the first; after that he can choose for himself. Since he pays a bride price – usually cows – it’s only those with many cows who can afford multiple wives. ‘To the Maasai,’ Konee said, ‘cows are like a bank account, and sheep and goats are the petty cash.’ ___________________________________________________________________________________________
The Maasai today straddle two worlds. On the way back from the village we passed through a little trading centre and got a sense of the less traditional side of Maasai life. It was like a Wild West cowboy town – not the sanitised Hollywood version, but dusty and disheveled. Yet you could get just about anything there, from groceries and airtime to tyres or a haircut, and you could pay with M-Pesa, the ingenious mobile phone payment system that means Kenyans don’t have to carry cash. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 8. Sunsets
Try to enjoy at least one sunset out on the plains, surrounded by flat-topped trees, antelope, zebra and giraffe. Forget everything else and focus on the changing colours of the sky as day turns to night. Live in the moment, sip on a cocktail and fix the memory in your mind to savour long after your Chyulu Hills adventure is over. ___________________________________________________________________________________________ 9. Five-star food and wine
Great Plains Conservation’s ol Donyo Lodge is a Relais & Châteaux property, with all the class and sophistication that implies. The food conjured up by chef Timothy Okoth is no exception. He loves to use fresh ingredients in season to produce in-depth flavours with subtle spices, like his signature anise and coconut simmered chicken, or chickpea and rosemary flatbreads. His osso buco has a delicious hint of fennel and his lamb shank is possibly the most succulent and delicious I’ve ever tasted.
Being in the bush teaches a chef to be creative with what he has to hand. Tim visited Cape Town in May 2017 for the We Are Africa event, where he found inspiration from chefs like Pierre van Zyl of Botswana’s Zarafa Camp and Peter Templehoff. ‘Eating out and visiting the food markets was very special,’ says Tim. ‘Interacting with Templehoff and seeing his kitchen in action at the Greenhouse restaurant was a highlight for me.’ ___________________________________________________________________________________________
He loves when guests appreciate his team’s efforts and enjoys taking an under-appreciated ingredient and making it exciting to the palate – saffron-pickled turnips, for instance. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
We Are Africa reignited his desire to showcase local and African ingredients on future menus. ‘Things like springbok steak, tamarind and Ethiopian passion berry or Madagascan chocolate, caramel and pear dessert,’ he says.
___________________________________________________________________________________________ 10. Star bed
On a clear night the stars parade brightly across a darkened sky. The best way to appreciate them is to take a paraffin lamp and climb the stairs to the star bed made up for you on the roof terrace of your suite at ol Donyo Lodge. If it’s high summer, this will be the coolest place to spend the night. Even if it’s winter and too chilly to spend the whole night, tuck yourself in at least an hour or so to marvel at the wonders of the night sky in an area far from light pollution. If your visit coincides with a moonless night, the density of stars will dumbfound you. ___________________________________________________________________________________________
The Jabulani herd is famous in South Africa and affords travelers the utmost honor of visiting, learning about, touching and feeding these amazing giants. The herd is comprised of rescue elephants, with Jabulani being the original rescues and also,not to brag for him, the beautiful face on the bottles of Amarula Cream liqueur.
Each elephant in the Jabulani herd has their unique place and role: Tokwe is our regal matriarch, Sebakwe the mighty father, Fishan the enforcer to name just a few. Mambo is our most well-known baby, notorious for his tomfoolery and teenage boy antics. What mother could possibly have the strength and patience to deal with such a spirited young boy as well as help protect the rest of the herd? Lucky for us, we have Lundi!
Long before Camp Jabulani was created, the herds’ originators lived on a farm in Zimbabwe. There, their handlers were happy farming cattle during the day and the elephants could relax in the evenings. It was tough work for the elephants: long hours under the hot African sun, but at least they were a family. One day, everything changed.
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The farm was taken away from the owner and the elephants were chased down in a massive culling operation. Elephants were shot in front of their young and as the families ran, the young ones were separated from their parents. In the mad dash somehow, young Lundi found young Tokwe hiding in a bush. Tokwe welcomed the comfort of a friend with an open trunk and let Lundi hide with her. From that day on, Tokwe and Lundi have been inseparable best friends and Lundi would do anything for her saviour Tokwe.
Many years have since passed. The elephants have all adjusted better to their home here at Jabulani – much better than we could have hoped. Lundi and Tokwe, have managed to stay as close as sisters through everything. Each of them happy enough in their new home to have babies of their own. Out in the bush, when Tokwe takes the lead of the herd, Lundi is not far behind her faithful companion. She mimics Tokwe’s every move and makes sure the rest of the herd follows in line. Lundi acts as second in command to Tokwe and we like to think of her as the herds’ teacher.
One day while out in the bush, Lundi caught wind of some lions roaming in the area. She slowly snuck to the back of the line as the rest of her family members pressed on following Tokwe’s lead. Lundi then separated herself from the herd and began to chase down the lion clan. Soon enough, she found them: 3 lionesses dozing under an Acacia tree, not too far from the herds destined feeding spot for the morning. She let out a mighty trumpet and charged the lionesses repeatedly until they scattered up a hill. As Lundi walked off triumphantly, she suddenly realized she had strayed too far from the herd and had no idea where they could be. She began to run, calling for her family over and over again. Finally, after a half hours’ worth of running, she found them at the watering hole. The whole herd began to rumble in relief, welcoming their protector and teacher back home. As Lundi ran through the family, checking each one over with her trunk, she made sure to come to Tokwe last. As she stood in front of her best friend, you could see the emotions pouring out from each of them. They embraced trunks and began to rumble to one another, vowing to never lose each other again.
We left the Kapama Buffalo Camp around 6:00am in the morning. As we approach summer time our program changes so we leave slightly earlier in the mornings so we can catch the best sunrises and animal activity. You could already feel the crisp early morning bite was slowly subsiding into a pleasant freshness that only the change in season can bring.
We were only about a week away from summer and the Impala lambs were already dropping. As I was sipping away on some cold water, I knew this is exactly what the herbivores must be doing now. When you see many animals passing by the waterholes early in the morning, one must be prepared for a very warm day here in the South African bushveld.
It was the final half hour of our morning game drive. I decided to go past three dams, each slightly north from the other, almost in a straight line. These dams are surrounded by deep drainage lines covered by Tamboti and Jackalberry trees, as well as the odd Guarri Bush. We had been blessed in the past here by numerous Big 5 sightings, including regular leopard sightings of a resident female and her cub that has since been seen enjoying her own company as she looks for new territory for herself.
On this particular morning the first two dams were only accompanied by an impala bachelor herd, a warthog or two and a small herd of kudus. As we approached the third and I turned off the engine, the silence was broken by soft grunts of buffalo and the high pitches of the red-billed oxpeckers. We all sat for a moment to take in our scenery and appreciate the privilege of being surrounded by such beauty and wonder.
____________________________________________________________________________________________Our pleasant surroundings soon changed into an amazing sight.
We watched in awe as around 150 Cape buffalo appeared out of the tree line and made their way down to the water’s edge. The group became louder as they pushed their way through to find an open place to drink. Many oxpeckers flew down to drink as well. After quenching their thirst the buffalo waded through the shallow section up towards us.
While scanning the area with my binoculars I noticed one oxpecker looked quite different from the rest, even the call wasn’t what I was used to. I immediately smiled as I realized that what I was looking at was a yellow-billed oxpecker!
This is a bird found in the area but far more rare than the regularly sighted red-billed oxpecker which is native to the Savanna of sub-Saharan Africa, and can be found just about anywhere that there are roaming grazing herds, from the Central African Republic to Sudan as well as all of South Africa.
____________________________________________________________________________________________So you can understand my utter exhilaration to have spotted a yellow-billed oxpecker.
I was so excited I started snapping away with my camera while explaining to my guests that this was my first sighting on Kapama of this oxpecker. The eye of the Yellow-billed oxpecker is bright red and lacks the large yellow orbital ring of the Red-billed oxpecker. The final give away is as the name suggest, it has a yellow bill with red on the tip.
____________________________________________________________________________________________It is slightly more robust looking and also feeds on the ticks on large herbivores, especially buffalo. The red-billed oxpecker uses scissoring motion to extract insects tangled in the long hairs, yet the yellow-billed oxpecker uses pecking motion to grab insects. Though they rid animals of pests, oxpeckers also take blood from the sores, which may be slow to heal.
Quite simply, just be. Be present in a place that hasn’t changed for millions upon millions of years. Relax and savor the blissful silence. Apart from birdsong, you won’t hear anything else and it’s wonderfully refreshing. Surrounded by nature and solitude, it is the perfect place for yoga, meditation or simple quiet reflection. Just breathe…
Just like running down the side of a sand dune, I have to admit that exploring the dunes on an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) was the most fun I’ve had in a long time. With the warm sun casting its afternoon glow, we set out – with unflattering helmets and all – and let the adrenaline kick in.
The vehicles are automatic and you can go at your own pace. Either stick to the straight, but scenic, path below or take the winding path and venture up into the heart of the undulating dunes. You’ll pass oryx in the distance and you’ll witness the extraordinary desert sunset. You can’t help but smile like a kid on Christmas Day, it’s so much fun. I’ll never forget the words of 17-year-old guest Addy, who lived out her dreams that day. As we all dusted ourselves off and toasted the sunset, she exclaimed that it had been the best day of her life, that nothing could possibly top it, not even her wedding day or birth of her first child. Addy, you made me smile.
12. Dust off your camera and capture the beauty of the desert
Take photos of, well, everything! The Namib Desert is a photographer’s dream. There is so much indescribable beauty to capture, from the landscape and wildlife by day, to the impossibly starry sky by night. I’m still of the belief that no photos can really do this place justice, but bring your camera and give it a go.
7. Ponder the unsolved mystery of the fairy circles
A largely unexplained phenomenon, the Namib Desert is populated by mysterious, grass-ringed patches called fairy circles. Puzzlingly scattered across the stark desertscape, these curious circles not only appear to be evenly spaced, but they also never overlap. There are countless, some even laughable, theories, from underground fire-breathing dragons and dust-bathing ostriches, to armies of ants and termites, underground gases and plants simply competing for water. Fairy circles remain an unsolved mystery, and perhaps what we love about them the most, is that they are the perfect size and setting for romantic, lantern-lit dinners-for-two under the stars.
At the foot of Big Daddy is the hauntingly beautiful Deadvlei, or ‘dead marsh’. Thousands of years ago, the Tsauchab River flooded, creating temporary shallow pools of water that encouraged the growth of these camel thorn trees. Centuries later, an unforgiving drought killed the trees and the relentless hot sun scorched them black. It is a picture perfect, yet haunting, graveyard of eerie tree skeletons that poke out from the most picturesque, cracked white clay. A forest frozen in time, you simply have to see Deadvlei in person.
Enjoy unforgettable sundowner stop on the dunes, be sure to stop and watch as the colors constantly change and the sun casts its golden amber glow on the russet dunes.
If you want to ponder how insignificant we really are, then hop into a hot air balloon and quietly absorb the unparalleled 360° view of eternal beauty that is the Namib Desert. Awake just before dawn and venture out to the launch site before sunrise, then float up peacefully into the sky as the sun peeks over the horizon. Get a bird’s eye view of the jagged mountain tops that emerge from shifting dunes and soar over a landscape that remains unchanged for millions of years.
After a gentle landing amidst the amber dunes, as is customary with any balloon flight, you’ll enjoy a champagne toast, followed by a hearty breakfast. We’re talking fresh bread, buttery croissants, pancakes, fruit skewers, smoked salmon, a selection of cheeses and of course some piping hot coffee to get your day started. Though I must admit, not much can really top a morning like that – it was one of the most incredible, soul-enriching and humbling experiences and I cannot recommend it enough.
The Namib Desert boasts some of the world’s highest sand dunes, some of them reaching nearly 400 metres in height. Surrounded by countless dunes of differing heights, you really can take your pick, however most people flock to the world-famous Big Daddy and Dune 45. Whether you’re six years old or sixty, you can choose to climb the highest peak, or hike partway and slide down the side, or simply wander around the vlei below admiring the cascading dunes in all their glory.
Sliding down the side of these towering dunes takes you right back to your childhood. You’ll hear the contagious giggles of delight as people bounce down the dunes with reckless, childlike abandon. I dare you not to smile as your feet disappear deep into the dunes, your shoes fill with sand and you glide down to the vlei as if you’re walking on a cloud. It’s so much fun!
The NamibRand Nature Reserve was officially declared Africa’s first International Dark Sky Reserve (IDSR) in 2013. It also became the world’s first IDSR to be awarded Gold Tier status, declaring it an environment with exceptionally little to no impact from artificial light. With the nearest town situated 90 miles away, the reserve is not only free of light pollution, but also boasts one of the darkest skies ever measured.
Situated within this IDSR, &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge boasts a high-tech observatory that is equipped with a Meade LX200R 12-inch telescope (one of the largest in the southern hemisphere) using Autostar II technology. Under the guidance of an expert resident astronomer, guests can get a closer look at the planets and constellations of the enchanting Namibian sky.
1. Marvel at the scenery that has to be seen to believed
This is mother nature’s masterpiece. A true gem of Africa. Like a real-life Renoir painting unfolding right before your eyes, the desertscape is breathtaking. The seemingly desolate and rocky, open terrain, which is cradled by rugged mountains and dotted by curious rock formations, stretches far out into the distance where it eventually meets those towering, world-famous terracotta dunes. The landscape is blissfully remote, almost moon or Mars-like, and the stark contrasts blend together harmoniously creating what can only be described as an uninterrupted impressionist painting.
Like looking through a revolving kaleidoscope, the colours are forever changing as the sun casts light and shadow on the earth below, so be sure to watch the horizon at different times of the day to appreciate its enduring beauty. The dusty, golden brown terrain is interspersed with slate-coloured rocks and stark green and white tufts of dune grasses. At dusk, the rusty, ochre coloured dunes fade from a rich toffee or caramel hue to a deeper brown and the mountains slowly turn dusty rose and purple as the sun gently sets and the moon (and countless stars) start to emerge.
2. Stand in one of the oldest landscapes on the planet
Just setting foot on what is hailed the world’s oldest living desert is a bucket list item in itself. Formed a mind-boggling 55 million years ago, the mighty Namib Desert is in fact the oldest desert on the planet. Its wild, rugged splendour remains unchanged after all this time. It is the land that time forgot … a place where time stands still and timeless, captivating beauty surrounds you at all times.
One would expect the oldest desert on earth to be completely barren and devoid of life, but the exquisite Namib Desert is alive and full of life. It all comes down to the life-giving winds: the easterly wind carries dust and debris that feeds the insects and reptiles; while the westerly wind brings much-needed moisture to the land.
Everywhere you look, this desert is bursting with activity. Just look around you and you’ll see it is teeming with curious creatures and desert-adapted plants. From the photogenic quiver trees in bright yellow bloom and the fascinatingly bizarre Welwitschia plant that lives up to 1,500 years or the extremely poisonous false ink cap mushrooms, the miraculous desert flora (and fauna) has cleverly adapted in order to thrive in the harsh conditions.
Watch each day as the striking oryx make their way to the watering hole in front of the lodge to slake their thirst. Pick up your binos at any given time to do some birdwatching, and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot the endemic dune lark. You’ll see springbok, ostrich, jackal and giraffe … we even saw an aardwolf, which had been on my wildlife bucket list forever! But it’s the small wonders of Sossusvlei that are the scene-stealers. I went on a very informative dune adventure with Boniface, the friendliest, most enthusiastic, charming and knowledgeable ranger and he quietly introduced me to some of the unexpected creatures that inhabit the dunes.
Did you know that there are seven endemic species in the Sossusvlei area? The dune lark, FitzSimons’ burrowing skink, Grant’s golden mole, dancing white lady spider, southern harvester termite, barking gecko and Peringuey’s (or sidewinding) adder all call this part of the desert home, and so do chameleons, 200 (!) different types of beetles and our very own &Beyond namesake, a tiny and rare little gecko called the Pachydactylus etultra (‘et’ meaning ‘and’; ‘ultra’ meaning ‘beyond’). This handsome little fella was discovered at the lodge back in 2006 by (then) resident astronomer Miles Paul. Renowned reptile taxonomist and Curator of Herpetology at Bayworld in Nelson Mandela Bay, Professor Bill Branch, was called in for his expertise and five years later our little &Beyond gecko was officially published in the Harvard Journal (images courtesy of Miles Paul and Bill Branch).
Boniface, the Desert Whisperer, knows this area like the palm of his hand. As if by magic, he can follow the faintest, tiniest insect tracks in the ever-shifting sands and pinpoint exactly where a tiny Grant’s golden mole is burrowing or a dancing white lady spider is spinning its underground web. A self-confessed arachnophobe, I kept my distance from this eight-legged, eight-eyed (!) creature, and it was the undeniably cute Grant’s golden mole, rather, that stole my heart.
