Entamanu is the perfect spot for a more private experience of this wildlife mecca. Being right on the rim, the camp has access to the Crater soon after dawn, avoiding the crowds, to take you to see the outstanding volumes of wildlife: from some of Africa’s last rhinoceros to flamingoes to lovebirds.

Walking safaris are also a highly regarded experience. These are the unforgettable moments in Africa which very few get, to have it properly beneath your feet. You’ll be out of the vehicles with your guide, in the sparkling highland air. Along too, a Maasai scout – showing you his particular version of the natural world – and an armed ranger to keep you safe.

Often, as well, is the opportunity to drop round to see the camps Maasai neighbors, who are living a largely traditional life in the boma in the next valley, and still grazing their cattle in the conservation area. It will be just you and them, and a warm welcome with insights into the pastoral life from building huts to warrior ceremonies.